Posted by: tim ellis | August 21, 2005

Brazil – 16 September 2002


Breakfast is at 8.30 this morning for a 9.30 start to go out on the boat. Rodrigo told us last night that he would be surfing this morning before breakfast but when he arrived looking a little bleary eyed he admitted he had taken one look outside and gone back to bed. The weather was fairly overcast although not really cold. We set off by van to get to the boat which is in Garopaba -a bay or two up the coast. We were joined by a Brazilian couple who are staying at PVSM and by another small group at the boat. Once we are all suitably “waterproofed” up and fitted with buoyancy aids we have to wade out to the boat (a rigid inflatable) . A bouncy ride south through the choppy sea ensues but we soon find a pair of whales. They are not particularly active though we see some tails & fins. We return to the boat hut to disrobe and drink coffee then drive up the coast to see if we can see the whales from the shore. Then back to PVSM for lunch interrupted when a whale is spotted up the bay – we rush out with cameras, binoculars etc.- but although we can see it, it is too far away so we return to our meals- then Rodrigo calls us “The whale is showing us its backside” and indeed it is ‘sailing’ a characteristic behaviour where the whale lets the wind catch its tail flukes and blow it along – we watch until it stops then go in for coffee – only to be interrupted again when the whale starts sailing right in front of the restaurant windows. A quick spot of trying to identify the various sea birds we saw this morning (hampered by the fact that we are using a book written in Portuguese that doesn’t have pictures of every bird!

Following this I go for a ‘solo’ walk along the beach heading south first as far as a restaurant called ‘Corals’ where I See a striking bird I must try & identify this evening* Then North to the end of the beach where I watch the surfers for a while before returning to can up before dinner.

Rodrigo is not here tonight to translate the menu for us – we can manage the main courses by a mixture of memory and guesswork e are more stuck when it comes to sweet though since we only know passion fruit mousse and ice-cream and we don’t know what either is in Portuguese! We ask the waiter for a menu – he eventually returns with Rodrigo’s sister… there is no mousse but there is a traditional Portuguese/Brazilian cake we all decide to give it a try and enjoy it – so we ask for it’s name – “Pudding!”

*Initially I identify it as a Bananquit, but eventually work out it is a Great Kiskadee


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