Posted by: tim ellis | August 21, 2005

Dominica – Tuesday 27th November 2001

Still inspired by yesterdays ‘spirit of adventure’ I opt for the Creole breakfast – Salt fish & bakes – the bakes are very nice (and quite filling) while the salt fish is more of an acquired taste…

We are due out on the bus at 9.00 to visit the sulphur springs and Scott’s head, but a minor administrative cock up means the hotel thought we were due out this afternoon, and Jonathan is not available. Fortunately, they find us an alternative driver, Alwyn, fairly quickly – and once we have walked past the road works right outside we are soon on our way.

The second administrative problem comes at sulphur springs – you need a National Park site pass, which the hotel forgot to give us, and the office at the site is deserted. As we disembark we encounter a national park ‘Jobsworth’ who says we can’t continue without a permit, which he can’t sell us. Eventually he relents and lets us proceed while Alwyn goes to get passes for us. We see a great many lizards on the path up to the springs – which are the most desolate place we have seen on Dominica.

From there we go to Scott’s head – a peninsula with the Caribbean Sea on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other! Since there is no cover from the sun Jenny & I elect to stay on the shady beach and admire the impressive breakers while the others climb up the headland for the view. Then it’s back for lunch and to prepare for our final whale watch.

Andrew says that there is a couple who have been diving all week who want to do a whale watch – can they join us? We have no objection, so after loading up ‘Misers Dream’ we head off to where the sperm whales were seen this morning – we don’t find them but we do find a very large pod of pilot whales that are dispersed all around the boat. The hydrophone suggests that there are Sperm whales about but we can’t see them- we try heading south but appear to be loosing them so head back north (back through the pilots) where we find Fraser’s dolphin. Time is getting on so Andrew decides to have one last look for the sperm whale. We don’t find it although we do get a brief and distant sighting of what might be Couvier’s Beaked whale. Defeated we head in as the sun goes down – only to meet a second group of Fraser’s. We have a final complimentary rum punch to say Goodbye to the boat


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